Day 9

Sea Ice North of Spitzbergen

by Michelle Alten

A walrus on the ice
Nikon D4, Lens: VR 200-400mm f/4G, Focal Length: 400mm, ISO 100, Aperture: f/8, Shutter Speed: 1/640s, Exposure Comp.: -0.3EV

We are navigating the ice at 79 degrees latitude, about 500 miles from the North Pole.  As our ship slips between ice floes at the edge of the pack ice, we pass a walrus resting alone on an ice raft.  Travelers and staff are gathering on the bridge to commence the polar bear watch.  We have kept our eyes open for polar bears throughout the trip, but now we’re serious—here in the pack ice a sighting is more likely.  I wonder if we will see a bear on the trip—the chances of spotting the vanilla-colored mammal on vast stretches of ice seem very slim and truly a matter luck.

A polar bear is sniffing the ship Nikon D4, Lens: VR 200-400mm f/4G, Focal Length: 300mm, ISO 100, Aperture: f/7.1, Shutter Speed: 1/500s, Exposure Comp.: -0.3EV

Wolfgang announces a bottle of champagne to whoever spots the first polar bear.  We are stunned when one minute later Stephen, our naturalist from Tasmania, finds her—a stunning female bear padding along the ice ridges.  Scrambling–as quietly as possible–onto the bow, we raise our cameras and field glasses.  To my amazement, she doesn’t run away—instead she lifts her nose, sniffs the icy air, and then marches in our direction.  My heart races as I realize I am about to get an even better look.  This bear is either extremely curious or she smells a meal.  She continues strutting towards the ship, sniffing the air, licking her lips, eyeing the ship and the photographers lined up on the bow.  Then the giant, majestic creature—the king of the Arctic– plops herself onto the snow like a frustrated puppy.  I can imagine a silent sigh and her thoughts “Such a good meal and no way to get it.”  But she rises, continuing to approach the ship, sniffing, licking her lips, opening her great jowls. She looks up at us, pauses, rolls on her back and slides playfully down an ice mound.   At times her behavior appears gentle, reassembling that of our dog Milo.  But her small, sharp eyes, give her away—she is among the fiercest predators on the planet.  Her sleek head resembles a keen shepherd that might charge at any minute. Her claws are razors that could tear apart any meal.  From the protective lookout of the ship, I am privileged to witness this dangerous and elusive creature.  Never did I expect to get this close to a polar bear!

A polar bear close-up
Nikon D4, Lens: VR 200-400mm f/4G, Focal Length: 400mm, ISO 100, Aperture: f/6.3, Shutter Speed: 1/400s, Exposure Comp.: -0.3EV

If I could get one of those tourists….
Nikon D4, Lens: VR 200-400mm f/4G, Focal Length: 200mm, ISO 100, Aperture: f/5, Shutter Speed: 1/400s, Exposure Comp.: -0.3EV

Christian had said, we are not permitted to get closer than (200 meters) but of course the bear is allowed to get closer than (200 meters)–the bear’s curiosity is our good fortune.  Her playful rolling and sliding in the ice, appears to be frolicking, but is a means of cleaning her stunning coat.  The immaculate fur, the color of French vanilla ice cream, is impeccably maintained.  When her interest wanes, and she wanders off across the ice ridges, we move on to search for other bears.

In the afternoon we spot three more bears.  Two are engaged in a mysterious chase across the ice, each smelling the other despite the distance between them.  One pursues the other—the chased bear, determined to avoid a conflict, continues to flee across the white expanse.

In the evening we celebrate our successful wildlife viewing with a BBQ on deck– a festive event with gluhwein and dancing. Around 10:00 p.m. another bear approaches the ship, and we are treated to another up-close view of the Arctic Kings.

Balancing on ice Nikon D4, Lens: VR 200-400mm f/4G, Focal Length: 200mm, ISO 100, Aperture: f/6.3, Shutter Speed: 1/400s, Exposure Comp.: -0.3EV

Day 10

Pack Ice

The bears did not always come close to the ship even if there is a Harp seal next to us
Nikon D4, Lens: VR 200-400mm f/4G, Focal Length: 400mm, ISO 100, Aperture: f/10, Shutter Speed: 1/160s, Exposure Comp.: -0.3EV

The morning fog locks in the pack ice: it will be very difficult to spot the bears. We wonder whether we should have called it quits on the polar bear watch.  The clouds slyly lift then descend again.  By afternoon, the clouds give way to clearer skies.  To the north we spot a polar bear on the ice with its kill-a seal.  We approach very slowly, but the bear smells the ship.  It plunges into the water, dragging the seal and swimming away with its feast.  Rare Ivory gulls descend on the bloody snow, pecking at the remaining scraps.

Cruising amidst floes, we spot a harp seal at the ice edge.  A polar bear in the distance at first seems to be approaching the seal.  We watch thinking that we might see a kill, but then it stops and heads off in the other direction.  Only occasionally do other marine mammals appear–most stay hidden in the icy sea.  But a fin whale creates a long steely silhouette on the water while a bearded seal reclines all alone on the pack ice.