At the lodge, we are told not to cross the bridge that extends across the giant lily pond. The long wooden pathway taunts me like a friend yanking at my sleeve. But there are jaguars all around, and they warn us that walking beyond the immediate grounds is dangerous. Even at the lodge, we shouldn’t walk alone after dark. I wonder what help a partner could be if a jaguar appeared. I notice that no one tells us what to do should a jaguar approach – maybe there isn’t much one can do. Out on the boat again our luck holds: our group spots a jaguar stalking the shoreline and sneaking through the brush. More great shots! Once the jaguar disappears into the forest, we continue our search for birds. A large billed tern, with a yellow beak and black cap, perches on a branch above the river. After dark we end the day with a flashlight walk seeking out frogs and even a tarantula, hidden in crack in a tree.