by Michelle Alten –  Photographs by Wolfgang Kaehler

Los Islotes

These sculpted red rock islets are covered with white guano as though dusted with powdered sugar.  The barks of California sea lions and their pungent smell carry in the sea breeze.  Cruising in the afternoon and evening, we spot humpback whales that have migrated here for the winter.  We watch them navigate the waters quite close to the ship.  The sighting is a great ending to our wildlife experience.  Leaving the whales behind, we cruise towards Cabo San Lucas.

Back in Cabo San Lucas, the artificial lights, hammering music, packed pools and sweaty bars feel like an affront to the senses.  In the pools, vacationers sip frosty margaritas while others bop to noisy commands of a water aerobics instructor.  I instantly miss the silent desert and the quiet song of the sea.   As I walk by happening resorts, I recall that just beyond this tourism mecca is a place where truly important things are happening—the procreation of the titanic and majestic grey and blue whales.