Gentoo penguins on Cuverville Island, Antarctica (Nikon D4, Nikon 70-200mm)

Escaping civilization can be as hard as sledding on water. But the Gerlach Strait, where icebergs parade through a channel crowned with basalt mountains resembling Rhein Castles, feels like the edge of the world. This paradise belongs only to the Gentoo penguins, seals and killer whales. The sun is glistening on the pristine glaciers surrounding this slip of water — this is the perfect day in Antarctica, the day that makes the whole journey worthwhile. As we rumble through the water in our zodiac, teams of Gentoos porpoise through the straight. We hear the splash and plop as they thread the water like synchronized swimmers. On shore on Cuverville Island we keep our distance from the colonies so as not to disturb the penguins that are preparing to lay their eggs. But the curious Gentoos saunter up to us to get a look at the giant orange birds that have arrived. In their rookeries, pairs of penguins let out a raucous braying sound, greeting a mate that they recognize by sound. Penguins occasionally squabble with their neighbor and come and go as they head to sea to feed. This is a scene that would charm Walt Disney. As we return to the ship, I have the pleasure of sharing stories with travelers from South Africa, New Zealand, Australia and Germany who all agree this has been one of the best days of their lives.

Seabourn Quest at Cuverville Island (Nikon D4, Nikon 24-70mm)

Sunburst at Cuverville Island (Nikon D4, Nikon 24-70mm)